ARCATENA
The "arkatena koulourka" (crunchy
rolls), which are known throughout Cyprus, were
first made in Omodos around 1880. The art of "Arkatis" (singular,
spiced extract from chickpeas used as yeast ),
which is the secret of making this rusk, came
to Omodos from Smyrna (today's Izmir) through
a female inhabitant of Smyrna, Hadjistasou, that
-after coming to Cyprus -got acquainted with
a local man, Hadjinikolis, got married to him
and together they settled in Omodos. So, she
taught the village's other women hot to make
the "arkatena".
Ground chick-peas and ginger are used for the
making of the "arkatis". During the
night they constantly stir it and this is the
secret for a successful "arkateno" (singular
of "arkatena"). In case it is not successful,
then the rolls / rusks become stony, do not rise,
and do not become light and crisp. The ingredients
used for the making of the rolls are "arkatis" (see
above), flour, and various aromatic essences
such as mastic (gum), "mehlepi" (mahaleb
cherry seeds), nutmeg, rose water, et al. The "piroma",
meaning the preparation of the oven, takes place
along the making of the rolls. After being baked
in the oven, they remain in their for several
hours so that they harden. That means that one
can have soft and hard rolls. Another item done
is the "panisida" (large sesame loaf)
that is offered in the church, in celebrations,
and in memorials. Another kind of "arkateno" is
the "mizana" (crescent-shaped roll),
which is oblong and made out of 5-7 pieces, the "paksimadia" (plural
of rusk), and it can also be made soft or hard.
In the old days the rolls and rusks were offered
during visits, baptisms, and in weddings instead
of the sweet or the Turkish delight that are
offered today. Many times they are offered along
with Chaloumi (Cyprus's hard cheese) or meat.
Today, the ones celebrating still take "panisides" as
a gift to the church, while rolls and rusks are
usually used for breakfast. The housewives of
Omodos make the rolls 4-5 times a year for the
needs of the family. They are also made by some
of the inhabitants for commercial purposes.
Editing of text: Panayiotis Socratous
Secretary of ecclesiastical committee |
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